Gutting a track car is a great way to save weight and improve performance. However, it can be a daunting task, especially if you’ve never done it before. In this article, we’ll walk you through the process of gutting a track car without a title. We’ll cover everything from removing the seats and interior to stripping the car down to its bare essentials. By the end of this article, you’ll have the knowledge and confidence to gut your own track car.
The first step in gutting a track car is to remove the seats and interior. This can be done by unbolting the seats and removing them from the car. Once the seats are removed, you can start to remove the interior panels. These panels are typically held in place by clips or screws. Once the interior panels are removed, you can start to strip the car down to its bare essentials. This includes removing the carpet, headliner, and sound deadening material. Once the car is stripped down, you’ll be left with a bare chassis that is ready to be built into a track car.
Gutting a track car can be a lot of work, but it’s worth it if you’re serious about improving your performance. By removing all of the unnecessary weight from your car, you can make it faster and more agile. Gutting your car can also improve your safety in the event of a crash. By removing all of the flammable materials from your car, you can reduce the risk of a fire in the event of an accident. If you’re looking to improve your track performance, gutting your car is a great way to do it.
Safety First: Preparing for Car Gutting
Gutting your track car can be an exciting project, but it is vital to prioritize safety throughout the process. Carefully follow these steps to mitigate risks and have a successful gutting experience:
1. Wear Appropriate Safety Gear:
Donning the proper safety attire is paramount. Wear gloves to protect your hands from sharp edges and chemical irritants. A respirator or dust mask will safeguard your lungs from hazardous dust particles and fumes. Eye protection such as safety glasses or goggles is crucial to prevent eye injuries from flying debris. A protective suit or coveralls will shield your skin and clothing from dirt and chemicals. Additionally, consider wearing a hard hat to protect your head in case of falling objects.
Here is a table summarizing the recommended safety gear:
| Safety Gear | Purpose |
|---|---|
| Gloves | Protect hands from sharp edges and chemicals |
| Respirator/Dust Mask | Protect lungs from dust and fumes |
| Eye Protection | Prevent eye injuries from flying debris |
| Protective Suit/Coveralls | Shield skin and clothing from dirt and chemicals |
| Hard Hat | Protect head from falling objects |
Removing Interior Components: Seats, Carpets, and Dash
Seats
Removing the seats is a crucial step in gutting a track car. Start by disconnecting the battery to prevent any electrical hazards. Then, locate the bolts that secure the seat to the floorpan and remove them. Carefully lift the seat out of the car, being mindful not to damage the upholstery or trim. Repeat this process for all seats.
Carpets
Removing the carpets is a more time-consuming but essential step. Use a utility knife to carefully cut around the edges of the carpet, being careful not to damage the floorpan. Once the carpet is loose, peel it back and remove any adhesive residue.
Dash
Removing the dash is the most complex step in gutting the interior. It requires patience and attention to detail. Start by disconnecting all electrical connections, including the battery, stereo, and climate control. Then, remove the steering wheel and instrument cluster. Next, locate the bolts that secure the dash to the firewall and remove them. Carefully lift the dash out of the car, taking care not to damage any wires or components.
| Component | Removal Steps |
|---|---|
| Seats | – Disconnect battery – Remove bolts securing seat – Lift seat out of car |
| Carpets | – Use utility knife to cut around edges – Peel back carpet – Remove adhesive residue |
| Dash | – Disconnect all electrical connections – Remove steering wheel and instrument cluster – Remove bolts securing dash – Lift dash out of car |
Stripping Electrical Systems: Wiring, ECUs, and Gauges
Gutting a track car involves removing unnecessary electrical components to reduce weight and improve performance. Here’s a detailed guide to stripping the electrical systems:
Wiring
Unplug all unnecessary lights, fans, and other electrical accessories. Remove the wiring harness sections that connect these components. Use wire ties to organize and secure the remaining wiring.
ECUs
Disconnect and remove all electronic control units (ECUs) that are not essential for track performance, such as those for climate control, airbags, and infotainment systems. Check the vehicle manual to identify which ECUs can be safely removed.
Gauges
Retain only the essential gauges necessary for track driving, such as a tachometer, speedometer, and coolant temperature gauge. Remove all other gauges and their associated wiring. Consider installing aftermarket gauges designed specifically for track use, which can provide additional information and improve visibility.
| Essential Gauges | Non-Essential Gauges |
|---|---|
| Tachometer | Fuel Level Gauge |
| Speedometer | Oil Pressure Gauge |
| Coolant Temperature Gauge | Odometer |
| Voltmeter (optional) | Trip Computer |
Removing Exterior Panels: Doors, Fenders, and Hood
Removing Doors
1) Open the door and disconnect the electrical connectors running from the door to the body.
2) Locate the door hinges and remove the bolts or pins holding them in place.
3) Lift the door up and off the hinges.
Removing Fenders
1) Open the hood and remove the bolts holding the fender to the front of the car.
2) Remove the bolts holding the fender to the side of the car.
3) Carefully pull the fender away from the car.
4) Disconnect the electrical connectors running from the fender to the body if applicable.
Removing Hood
1) Open the hood and locate the hinges at the front of the hood.
2) Remove the bolts or pins holding the hinges in place.
3) Lift the hood up and off the hinges.
4) Disconnect the hood latch cable from the latch on the body.
5) Remove the hood from the car.
| Panel | Removal Steps |
|---|---|
| Doors | Disconnect electrical connectors Remove bolts or pins from hinges Lift door up and off hinges |
| Fenders | Remove bolts from front and side of car Pull fender away from car Disconnect electrical connectors (if applicable) |
| Hood | Remove bolts or pins from hinges Lift hood up and off hinges Disconnect hood latch cable Remove hood from car |
Disassembling Suspension and Brakes
Removing Coilovers or Shocks and Springs
Disconnect the brake line from the brake caliper. Remove the bolts holding the caliper to the suspension and remove the caliper. Unbolt the top mount of the coilover or shock absorber. On the bottom, unbolt the lower control arm from the spindle. Carefully lower the suspension to allow the spindle to come out of the lower control arm. Tilt the assembly and remove the coilover or shock and spring.
Removing Brake Lines
Clip or unbolt any lines from the body of the car. Use a 10mm flare wrench to loosen the brake line from the caliper. Place a rag over the end of the brake line that you disconnected from the caliper to prevent brake fluid from leaking out. Tape the end of the brake line shut to prevent brake fluid from draining out of the system.
Removing Brake Calipers
Remove the two bolts that hold the brake caliper to the suspension. Carefully lift the caliper off the rotor and hang it out of the way with a zip tie or bungee cord. If the caliper is stuck, you can use a hammer to gently tap it loose.
Removing Brake Rotors
Remove the lug nuts and take off the wheel. Use a 17mm socket to remove the two bolts that hold the rotor to the hub. There may be two or more bolts. If there are two, one of them will be a longer bolt. The longer bolt goes on the top of the rotor. Once the bolts are removed, carefully pull the rotor off of the hub.
Removing Spindles
Remove the cotter pin from the spindle nut. Use a 32mm socket or wrench to loosen the spindle nut. Once the spindle nut is loose, remove the washer and the spindle nut. Pull the spindle out of the steering knuckle. Use a hammer to tap out the spindle if it is stuck. Be careful not to damage the steering knuckle.
| Spindle | The spindle is the shaft that connects the wheel to the suspension. It is also the part that the brake rotor mounts to. |
| Steering knuckle | The steering knuckle is the part of the suspension that connects the spindle to the control arm. It also houses the wheel bearing. |
| Cotter pin | The cotter pin is a small pin that is used to secure the spindle nut. |
| Spindle nut | The spindle nut is a large nut that is used to hold the spindle in place. |
| Washer | The washer is a thin metal ring that is used to distribute the load of the spindle nut. |
Removing Powertrain: Engine, Transmission, and Driveline
Engine Removal
Begin by disconnecting all electrical and fuel lines from the engine. Remove any accessories such as the alternator, power steering pump, and AC compressor. Hoist the engine from its mounts using a cherry picker or engine crane. Carefully lower the engine and remove it from the car.
Transmission Removal
Disconnect all electrical connectors, shift linkages, and fluid lines from the transmission. Unbolt the transmission mount and remove the driveshaft. Use a transmission jack to support the transmission and detach it from the engine. Carefully lower the transmission and remove it from the car.
Driveline Removal
If your car has a rear-wheel-drive configuration, remove the driveshaft by unbolting the universal joints. For front-wheel-drive cars, remove the axles by pulling them out of the differential and suspension components.
Removing the Differential
On rear-wheel-drive cars, the differential is located at the rear of the driveshaft. Unbolt the differential from the axle housing and remove it.
Removing the Propeller Shaft
On all-wheel-drive cars, the propeller shaft connects the transmission to the front and rear differentials. Unbolt the propeller shaft from the differentials and remove it.
Removing the Clutch or Flywheel
For manual transmission cars, remove the clutch or flywheel by unbolting it from the engine crankshaft. Be aware that the clutch or flywheel may be heavy, so use appropriate safety measures when handling it.
| Component | Steps |
|---|---|
| Engine | Disconnect lines, remove accessories, hoist, lower |
| Transmission | Disconnect connections, unbolt mount, detach driveshaft, lower |
| Driveshaft (RWD) | Unbolt universal joints |
| Axles (FWD) | Pull out of differential and suspension |
| Differential (RWD) | Unbolt from axle housing |
| Propeller Shaft (AWD) | Unbolt from differentials |
| Clutch/Flywheel (MT) | Unbolt from crankshaft |
Stripping Insulation and Sound Dampening
The next step is to remove any insulation and sound dampening materials from the interior of the car. This will help to reduce weight and improve airflow. To do this, you will need to remove all of the interior panels, including the headliner, door panels, and carpet. Once the panels are removed, you can use a sharp knife or utility blade to cut away the insulation and sound dampening materials. Be careful not to damage the metal panels of the car.
Once the insulation and sound dampening materials have been removed, you can clean the interior of the car with a degreaser and a pressure washer. This will help to remove any dirt or debris that may have been left behind.
Once the interior of the car is clean, you can begin to reinstall the interior panels. Start by reinstalling the headliner, then the door panels, and finally the carpet. Be sure to use new clips and screws to secure the panels in place.
Here is a table that summarizes the steps involved in stripping insulation and sound dampening from a track car:
| Step | Description |
|---|---|
| 1 | Remove all of the interior panels |
| 2 | Cut away the insulation and sound dampening materials |
| 3 | Clean the interior of the car |
| 4 | Reinstall the interior panels |
Reinforcing the Roll Cage
The roll cage is a crucial component in ensuring the safety of a track car in the event of a crash. Reinforcing the roll cage is essential to enhance its strength and rigidity.
8. Adding Gussets and Reinforcements
Gussets are triangular or square-shaped plates that are welded to the joints of the roll cage to reinforce them. Reinforcements are additional bars or tubes that are welded to the cage to provide extra strength in critical areas.
Types of Gussets and Reinforcements:
| Type | Description |
|---|---|
| Diagonal Gussets | Form a triangle between the main cage bars, preventing bending or twisting. |
| Shear Gussets | Support the cage against shear forces, such as those caused by side impacts. |
| Cross Gussets | Connect the main cage bars at the corners, providing stability and preventing deformation. |
| Roll Over Bars | Attached to the top of the cage, protecting the occupants in the event of a rollover. |
| Side Impact Bars | Reinforce the cage against side impacts, protecting the occupants from intrusion. |
Materials for Gussets and Reinforcements:
- Mild Steel (SAE 1020 or 1026)
- Chromoly (4130 or 4140)
- Aluminum (6061-T6 or 7075-T6)
The choice of material depends on the specific requirements of the track car and the desired level of reinforcement.
Installing Lightweight Replacements
Reducing vehicle weight is one of the most effective ways to improve lap times. Here’s how to swap out heavy stock components for lighter alternatives:
9. Interior
Gutting the interior is a significant undertaking but can yield substantial weight savings. Here’s a breakdown of the key components:
| Component | Weight Savings (lbs) |
|---|---|
| Dashboard | 20 |
| Center console | 15 |
| Door panels | 30 |
| Seats | 60 |
| Carpet | 10 |
| Headliner | 5 |
| Rear seats | 40 |
| Spare tire and jack | 25 |
| Air conditioning system | 40 |
| Sound system | 20 |
Remember: Removing safety equipment like airbags and seatbelts can be dangerous and should only be done by a professional.
Other lightweight replacements include:
- Aluminum radiator
- Carbon fiber hood and fenders
- Polycarbonate windows
- Titanium exhaust system
Final Touches: Weight Reduction Optimization
1. Advanced Weight Reduction Techniques
After completing the necessary safety modifications and removing non-essential components, consider the following advanced weight reduction techniques:
i. Lightweight Seats: Replace stock seats with racing seats made of carbon fiber or fiberglass, significantly reducing weight while providing increased support.
ii. Polycarbonate Windows: Install polycarbonate windows instead of heavy glass counterparts, shaving off pounds without compromising visibility.
iii. Carbon Fiber Body Panels: Swap out metal body panels with carbon fiber replacements, offering both weight savings and enhanced structural rigidity.
iv. Titanium Exhaust System: Replace the standard exhaust system with a lighter titanium one, reducing exhaust weight and improving performance.
v. Lightweight Battery: Install a smaller, lightweight battery designed for racing applications, providing sufficient power while shedding unnecessary weight.
vi. Aluminum Suspension Components: Replace steel suspension components with lighter aluminum counterparts, reducing unsprung weight and improving agility.
2. Meticulous Weight Distribution
In addition to reducing overall weight, optimize the car’s weight distribution for better handling. Focus on balancing the weight between the front and rear, as well as left and right:
i. Relocate Battery and Fuel Cell: If feasible, move heavy components like the battery or fuel cell to a more central or optimized location.
ii. Balanced Ride Heights: Ensure the car’s ride heights are level on both sides to prevent excessive body roll or understeer.
iii. Strategic Ballast Placement: If necessary, add ballast (lead or steel weights) to specific locations to achieve the desired weight distribution.
3. Weight Reduction Summary
| Component | Average Weight Savings (lbs) |
|---|---|
| Bucket Seats | 50-75 |
| Polycarbonate Windows | 20-30 |
| Carbon Fiber Body Panels | 100-200 |
| Titanium Exhaust System | 15-25 |
| Lightweight Battery | 10-20 |
| Aluminum Suspension Components | 25-50 |
How to Gut a Track Car
Gutting a track car involves removing non-essential components to reduce weight and improve performance. Here’s a step-by-step process:
- Remove interior: Take out seats, carpet, headliner, center console, dashboard, and anything else unnecessary.
- Remove exterior components: Remove bumpers, headlights, taillights, mirrors, and any other aerodynamic aids.
- Remove heavy components: This includes the battery, alternator, air conditioning, cruise control, and any other components that add weight.
- Modify suspension: Remove unnecessary suspension components, such as sway bars and anti-roll bars, to reduce weight and improve handling.
- Install a roll cage: This provides safety in the event of a crash and adds rigidity to the chassis.
- Install a racing seat: A racing seat offers better support and safety than stock seats.
People Also Ask
How much weight can I save by gutting my track car?
The exact weight savings depend on the vehicle and the components removed. However, it’s possible to save hundreds of pounds.
What are the benefits of gutting a track car?
Gutting a track car reduces weight, improves performance, and increases safety. It also allows for easier installation of race-specific components.
Is it worth it to gut my track car?
Whether or not it’s worth it to gut your track car depends on your racing goals and budget. Gutting can significantly improve performance, but it also requires a substantial investment in time and money.
