Hemming a skirt can be a quick and easy way to alter its length and give it a more polished look. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced seamstress, with the right tools and a little bit of patience, you can achieve a professional-looking hem at home. In this guide, we will take you through the step-by-step process of how to hem a skirt, providing detailed instructions and helpful tips along the way.
Before you begin, gather your materials. You will need a sewing machine, thread, a measuring tape or ruler, a fabric pen or chalk, and an iron and ironing board. If you’re working with a delicate fabric, you may also want to use a fabric stabilizer to prevent stretching or puckering. Once you have your materials ready, you can start by measuring the desired length of the skirt and marking it with a fabric pen or chalk.
Next, fold the hem up to the marked line and press it with an iron. This will create a crease that will help you sew a straight and even hem. If you’re working with a thick fabric, you may need to fold the hem up twice to achieve the desired length. Once the hem is folded and pressed, you can start sewing. Use a small stitch length and sew around the hem, making sure to catch both layers of fabric. When you reach the end of the hem, overlap the stitches by a few inches and backstitch to secure the thread.
Tools You Need for Hemming a Skirt
To hem a skirt properly, you will need several essential tools. These tools will help ensure that the hem is accurate, even, and secure.
Measuring and Marking Tools
Accurate measurements are crucial for creating a hem that fits perfectly. Here are the tools you’ll need for measuring and marking:
-
Measuring Tape or Ruler:
A flexible measuring tape or a rigid ruler is essential for measuring the desired hem length and marking the fold line.
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Fabric Marker or Chalk:
Use a fabric marker or chalk to mark the fold line and the stitching line for the hem.
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Pins:
Pins are used to hold the fabric in place while marking and sewing the hem.
In addition to these basic measuring and marking tools, you may also need other items such as an iron and ironing board to press the hem, and a sewing machine or needle and thread to sew it in place.
Preparing the Skirt for Hemming
Before you begin hemming your skirt, it’s essential to prepare it properly to ensure a precise and professional-looking finish.
2. Measuring and Marking the Hem
This is the most crucial step in the hemming process. Here’s how to do it accurately:
a. Determine the Desired Hem Length:
- Put on the skirt and mark the desired hem length with pins or chalk.
- For a flat hem, measure from the floor to the desired point.
- For a folded hem, add twice the width of the desired hem to the measurement from the floor.
b. Mark the Hemline:
- Using a ruler or measuring tape, measure and mark the hemline evenly around the skirt’s circumference.
- To ensure accuracy, insert pins or chalk marks every 2-3 inches.
c. Check the Symmetry:
- Once the hemline is marked, hang the skirt on a hanger and let it settle for a few minutes.
- Step back and visually inspect the hemline from different angles to check its symmetry.
- Adjust the markings as needed to ensure an even and aesthetically pleasing hem.
| Hem Type | Measurement from Floor |
|---|---|
| Flat hem | Actual desired hem length |
| Folded hem | Actual desired hem length + twice the desired hem width |
Measuring and Marking the Hem Line
Once you have determined the desired skirt length, it’s time to measure and mark the hem line. This step requires accuracy to ensure that the skirt hem is even and straight.
Here’s a detailed guide on how to measure and mark the hem line:
Materials Needed:
- Measuring tape
- Fabric marker or chalk
- Safety pin or large needle (optional)
Steps:
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Measure the hem length:
Using a measuring tape, determine the desired length of the hem from the waistline or where you want the hem to fall.
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Mark the hem line on the side seams:
Fold the skirt in half lengthwise and align the side seams. Use a fabric marker or chalk to mark the desired hem length on both side seams.
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Mark the hem line on the waistband:
Place the marked side seams on the waistband and align them with the corresponding waistline seam. Use a fabric marker or chalk to extend the hem line from the side seams onto the waistband. If the waistband is attached to the skirt, you can use a safety pin or large needle to guide the marking tool through the waistband seam.
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Connect the hem line marks:
Use the fabric marker or chalk to connect the marked hem line points on the side seams and waistband. Create a smooth, continuous line that forms the new hem line.
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Check for accuracy:
To ensure accuracy, measure several points along the hem line to confirm that it is even and at the desired length. If necessary, adjust the hem line as needed.
| Measurement | Description |
|---|---|
| Length from waistline to desired hem length | Determines the overall length of the hem. |
| Length from the top of the waistband to the marked hem line | Establishes the new hem length at the waistband. |
| Length along the side seams from the marked hem line to the bottom of the skirt | Indicates the evenness of the hem. |
Pinning the Hem in Place
Once you have measured and marked the hem, it’s time to pin it in place. This will help you to keep the hem even and prevent it from shifting as you sew.
To pin the hem, start by folding the fabric up along the hemline. Make sure that the fold is even and that the raw edges are aligned. Then, use sewing pins to pin the hem in place. Place the pins perpendicular to the hemline, about 1 inch apart.
Tips for Pinning the Hem
| Tip | Description |
|---|---|
| Use sharp pins | Sharp pins will easily penetrate the fabric and will not damage it. |
| Pin perpendicular to the hemline | This will help to keep the hem even and prevent it from shifting as you sew. |
| Place the pins close together | This will help to keep the hem from puckering or stretching as you sew. |
| Test the hem before you sew it | Once you have pinned the hem, try on the garment to make sure that the length is correct. If necessary, adjust the hem before you sew it. |
Once you have pinned the hem in place, you are ready to sew it.
Sewing the Hem by Hand or Machine
Hemming a skirt is a relatively easy task that can be done by hand or machine. The method you choose will depend on the type of fabric and the desired finish.
Sewing the Hem by Hand
To hem a skirt by hand, you will need a needle and thread that matches the fabric. Fold the fabric up to the desired length and press it. Then, fold it up again and stitch it in place using a blind stitch or whip stitch.
Sewing the Hem by Machine
To hem a skirt by machine, you will need a sewing machine and a needle that matches the fabric. Fold the fabric up to the desired length and press it. Then, fold it up again and stitch it in place using a straight stitch or a zig-zag stitch.
Hand-sewing Techniques
There are two main hand-sewing techniques for hemming: the blind stitch and the whip stitch.
Blind Stitch
The blind stitch is a nearly invisible stitch that is perfect for hemming lightweight fabrics. To sew a blind stitch, insert the needle into the folded edge of the fabric, about 1/4 inch from the raw edge. Bring the needle out through the folded edge, about 1/8 inch from the first stitch. Insert the needle back into the folded edge, about 1/4 inch from the second stitch, and bring it out through the folded edge, about 1/8 inch from the third stitch. Continue stitching in this manner until the hem is complete.
Whip Stitch
The whip stitch is a quick and easy stitch that is perfect for hemming heavier fabrics. To sew a whip stitch, insert the needle into the folded edge of the fabric, about 1/4 inch from the raw edge. Bring the needle out through the folded edge, about 1/8 inch from the first stitch. Insert the needle back into the folded edge, about 1/4 inch from the second stitch, and bring it out through the folded edge, about 1/8 inch from the third stitch. Continue stitching in this manner until the hem is complete.
Finishing the Edges of the Hem
There are several ways to finish the edges of a hem to prevent fraying and add a professional touch.
1. Serging
Serging is a fast and efficient way to finish the edges of a hem. It uses a special machine that trims, overcasts, and sews the edge of the fabric in one step. Serging produces a strong and durable finish that is ideal for fabrics that fray easily.
2. Pinking Shears
Pinked shears cut the edge of the fabric in a zigzag pattern that helps to prevent fraying. This is a good option for fabrics that are not too delicate and do not require a more elaborate finish.
3. Hemming Tape
Hemming tape is a fusible tape that can be applied to the edge of the hem and then ironed in place. It creates a strong and invisible bond that holds the hem in place and prevents fraying.
4. Hand-Sewing
Hand-sewing the hem is a more time-consuming but elegant option. There are several different hand-sewing stitches that can be used to finish a hem, including the blind hem stitch, the slip stitch, and the whipstitch.
5. Topstitching
Topstitching is a decorative stitch that can be used to finish the edge of a hem. It is typically done with a contrasting thread color and creates a visible and stylish finish.
6. Binding
Binding is a technique that involves wrapping a strip of fabric around the edge of the hem and sewing it in place. It creates a durable and decorative finish that is ideal for heavier fabrics or fabrics that fray easily.
| Pros | Cons |
|---|---|
| Strong and durable | Can be bulky |
| Can be decorative | Time-consuming |
| Ideal for heavyweight fabrics |
Ironing the Hem
Once you have sewn the hem, it’s time to iron it. This will help to create a crisp, professional-looking finish. Here are the steps on how to iron a hem:
1. Prepare your iron and ironing board.
Make sure your iron is set to the correct temperature for the fabric you are using. Also, make sure your ironing board is covered with a clean cloth or ironing board cover.
2. Place the skirt on the ironing board.
Smooth out the skirt so that the hem is flat against the ironing board. Make sure that the hem is not folded or creased.
3. Iron the hem.
Starting at one end of the hem, iron the hem flat. Use a light touch and move the iron in small, even strokes. Be careful not to press too hard, as this could damage the fabric.
4. Press the hem.
Once you have ironed the entire hem, use the iron to press the hem flat. Apply a little more pressure than when you were ironing the hem. This will help to set the hem in place.
5. Let the hem cool.
Once you have pressed the hem, let it cool completely before handling it. This will help to prevent the hem from creasing.
6. Hang the skirt.
Once the hem is cool, hang the skirt up to dry. This will help to keep the hem in place and prevent it from wrinkling.
7. Finish the hem.
Once the skirt is dry, you can finish the hem by topstitching it. This will help to secure the hem in place and give it a more professional look. Here are the steps on how to topstitch a hem:
| Step | Instructions |
|---|---|
| 1 | Thread your sewing machine with a thread that matches the fabric of the skirt. |
| 2 | Set your sewing machine to a straight stitch. |
| 3 | Start sewing at one end of the hem. |
| 4 | Sew around the hem, using a small stitch length. |
| 5 | Stop sewing at the end of the hem. |
| 6 | Tie off the thread and trim the excess. |
Adjusting the Hem Length if Necessary
Once you’ve pinned the hem in place, you need to check the length to make sure it’s even. To do this, put on the skirt and stand in front of a full-length mirror. If the hem is too long, you can unpin it and shorten it by folding up the excess fabric. If the hem is too short, you can unpin it and let down the excess fabric by folding it down. Once you’re satisfied with the length, you can start sewing the hem.
Here are some tips for adjusting the hem length:
- Put on the skirt and stand in front of a full-length mirror.
- Use a measuring tape to measure the desired length of the hem from the waistline or hip.
- If the hem is too long, unpin it and shorten it by folding up the excess fabric.
- If the hem is too short, unpin it and let down the excess fabric by folding it down.
- Once you are satisfied with the length, pin the hem back in place.
You can also use a hem marker to mark the desired length of the hem. This will help you to ensure that the hem is even all the way around.
Once you have adjusted the hem length, you can start sewing the hem. There are several different ways to sew a hem, so choose the method that you are most comfortable with.
Tips for Hemming a Skirt with a Lining
Hemming a skirt with a lining requires a bit more care and precision. Here are some tips to ensure a flawless finish:
1. Pin the Hem
Pin the hem of the skirt and lining separately, aligning the raw edges. Use plenty of pins to keep the fabric secure.
2. Hand-stitch the Lining
Using a blind stitch or slip-stitch, hand-stitch the lining to the skirt along the lining’s raw edge. This will allow the lining to hang freely without creating a visible seam.
3. Press the Lining
Once the lining is hand-stitched, press the seam to set it and flatten the fabric.
4. Fold the Hem
Fold the raw edge of the skirt up by the desired hem width. Press the fold to create a crease.
5. Pin the Hem
Pin the folded hem to the skirt, aligning the raw edges. Use plenty of pins to secure the fabric.
6. Machine-stitch the Hem
Using a straight stitch, machine-stitch the hem along the folded edge. Use a small stitch length for greater durability.
7. Press the Hem
Press the finished hem to set the seam and flatten the fabric.
8. Finish the Lining
Fold the lining’s raw edge up and press it to create a narrow hem. Hand-stitch the hem to the lining using a blind stitch or slip-stitch.
9. Finishing Touches
For a more professional finish, topstitch the hem around the edges. This will reinforce the seam and add a decorative touch.
| Topstitching Options |
|---|
| – Use a straight stitch |
| – Use a decorative stitch |
| – Topstitch by hand using a needle and thread |
Common Mistakes to Avoid When Hemming a Skirt
1. Not Measuring and Marking Accurately
Ensure precise measurements by using a measuring tape and marking pins to indicate the desired hemline. Avoid guesswork or eyeball measurements.
2. Sewing with the Wrong Thread or Needle
Choose thread and needles suitable for the fabric and weight of your skirt. Heavy fabrics require stronger thread and larger needles.
3. Stretching the Fabric While Sewing
Maintain a gentle, even tension while sewing to prevent puckering or stretching the fabric.
4. Hemming Too Narrowly
A too-narrow hem can easily fray or catch. Allow for a generous hem width that can withstand wear and tear.
5. Pressing Before Sewing
Always press the fabric before hemming to remove wrinkles and creases. This ensures a smooth, polished finish.
6. Sewing the Hem Too Loosely
Secure stitches are crucial for a durable hem. Avoid using too wide or loose stitches that can unravel over time.
7. Not Trimming Excess Fabric
Remove excess fabric beyond the stitch line to create a neat and tidy appearance.
8. Not Turning Under the Raw Edge
Protect the raw edge of the fabric by turning it under to prevent fraying and ensure a professional finish.
9. Ironing the Hem Over the Stitches
Avoid ironing directly over the stitches, as this can flatten and weaken them. Use a tailor’s clapper or a cloth over the hem to protect the stitches.
10. Skipping the Final Pressing
Press the finished hem thoroughly using a steam iron to set the fabric, remove any wrinkles, and achieve a crisp and polished look. This enhances the overall appearance and longevity of the hem.
How to Hem a Skirt
Hemming a skirt is a simple task that can be completed in a few easy steps. With the right tools and materials, you can achieve a professional-looking finish that will enhance the appearance of your skirt.
Materials:
- Skirt
- Measuring tape or ruler
- Fabric scissors
- Sewing needle or machine
- Thread
- Iron and ironing board (optional)
Steps:
- Measure the desired length: Determine the length you want the skirt to be. Measure from the waistline to the desired hemline.
- Mark the hemline: Use the measuring tape or ruler to mark the hemline along the entire length of the skirt.
- Fold up the hem: Fold the fabric up along the hemline to create a fold. The width of the fold will depend on the desired hem style.
- Press the fold: Use an iron and ironing board to press the fold in place. This will help the hem stay in place while you sew it.
- Sew the hem: Sew the hem using a needle or sewing machine. Use a stitch that is appropriate for the fabric of the skirt.
- Finish the hem: Trim any excess thread and press the hem in place once more for a professional finish.
People Also Ask
How do I hem a skirt without sewing?
There are several ways to hem a skirt without sewing, including using fabric glue, iron-on hem tape, or a fusible hem tape.
How do I hem a curved skirt?
To hem a curved skirt, you will need to mark the hemline carefully and fold the fabric accordingly. Use a curved seam guide or a flexible ruler to ensure the hem is even.
How do I hem a skirt with lace?
To hem a skirt with lace, you will need to cut the lace to the desired length and align it with the bottom edge of the skirt. Use a needle and thread to hand stitch the lace in place, taking care not to pull the thread too tightly.
