1. How to Replace Clutch on Honda 2010

Honda Clutch Replacement

Featured Image: $title$

Replacing the Clutch on a 2010 Honda

The clutch is an essential component of any manual transmission vehicle, and it can be quite a challenging task to replace. However, following the steps outlined in this guide will help you successfully replace the clutch on your 2010 Honda.

Step 1: Gathering the Necessary Tools and Materials

Before you begin, it is important to gather all of the necessary tools and materials. This includes a new clutch kit, a transmission jack, a floor jack, a set of wrenches, a set of sockets, and a torque wrench. Once you have all of the necessary tools and materials, you can begin the process of replacing the clutch.

Step 2: Removing the Old Clutch

The first step in replacing the clutch is to remove the old clutch. To do this, you will need to jack up the vehicle and remove the transmission. Once the transmission is removed, you will need to remove the clutch cover and the clutch disc. Be sure to inspect the flywheel for any signs of damage. If the flywheel is damaged, it will need to be replaced.

Gathering Necessary Tools and Materials

Before embarking on the task of replacing the clutch on a 2010 Honda, it is crucial to ensure you have all the necessary tools and materials. A well-prepared workspace is essential for a smooth and efficient repair process.

Tools:

Socket set (metric)
Torx bit set
Clutch alignment tool
Flywheel locking tool
Floor jack and jack stands
Transmission jack
Pick tool
Pry bar

Materials:

New clutch kit (includes clutch disc, pressure plate, and release bearing)
Flywheel resurfacing tool or machine
Clutch fluid
Brake cleaner
Threadlocker
Grease

Removing the Transmission

Getting Ready

Before starting, gather the necessary tools, including a transmission jack, wrenches, sockets, and a pry bar. Ensure your vehicle is properly supported and in a safe working environment.

Step-by-Step Removal

1. Disconnect the Battery

To avoid electrical hazards, disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.

2. Remove the Driveshaft

Locate the driveshaft connecting the transmission to the rear wheels. Support the driveshaft with a jack stand, then disconnect it from the transmission by removing the bolts at the coupling flange.

Carefully lower the driveshaft and secure it out of the way.

3. Unbolt the Transmission Mounts

Identify the transmission mounts, which are typically located on the sides and rear of the transmission. Use a wrench or socket to loosen and remove the bolts securing the mounts.

4. Support the Transmission

Position the transmission jack under the transmission and raise it slightly to provide support. Ensure the jack is stable and secure.

5. Disconnect the Shifter Linkage

Locate the shifter linkage connecting the transmission to the gear selector lever. Disconnect the linkage by removing the bolts or pins securing it.

6. Remove Remaining Connections

Disconnect any remaining electrical connectors, vacuum lines, or other components still attached to the transmission.

7. Lower the Transmission

With the supports in place and all connections removed, slowly lower the transmission by carefully operating the jack. Ensure the transmission is guided clear of any obstacles or obstructions.

8. Inspect the Clutch

Once the transmission is lowered, you can inspect the clutch assembly for wear or damage. Replace the clutch as necessary following the manufacturer’s instructions.

Disassembling the Clutch Assembly

Now that the transmission and flywheel have been removed, you can begin disassembling the clutch assembly. This involves removing several bolts that hold the pressure plate in place.

To do this, use a socket wrench to loosen the bolts around the perimeter of the pressure plate. Once the bolts are loose, you can remove them by hand.

Once the pressure plate is removed, you will need to separate the clutch disc from the flywheel. To do this, insert a flat-head screwdriver between the clutch disc and the flywheel. Pry the clutch disc off of the flywheel and set it aside.

The final step in disassembling the clutch assembly is to remove the release bearing from the clutch fork. To do this, use a screwdriver to pry the release bearing off of the clutch fork.

Once the release bearing has been removed, you can completely disassemble the clutch assembly by removing the pressure plate, clutch disc, and release bearing.

Inspecting the Clutch Components

Once you have disassembled the clutch assembly, it is important to inspect the components for wear and damage. The following are some of the things to look for:

Component	Signs of Wear/Damage
Pressure plate	Cracks, warping, or scoring
Clutch disc	Worn or glazed friction material, warped or broken disc
Release bearing	Noise or roughness when rotating, excessive play

Replacing the Clutch Disc

Step 1: Remove the transmission.

Step 2: Unbolt the pressure plate from the flywheel.

Step 3: Remove the old clutch disc.

Step 4: Install the new clutch disc.

Details of Step 4:

4.1: Clean the flywheel surface using a brake cleaner and a lint-free cloth.

4.2: Apply a thin layer of high-temperature grease to the splines of the input shaft.

4.3: Align the new clutch disc with the flywheel and input shaft.

4.4: Slide the clutch disc onto the input shaft until it is fully seated.

4.5: Install the pressure plate over the flywheel and clutch disc.

4.6: Tighten the pressure plate bolts to the specified torque using a torque wrench.

**Torque Specifications for Pressure Plate Bolts**
Vehicle	Torque (ft-lb)
Honda Civic (2010)	27-33
Honda Accord (2010)	30-36
Honda CR-V (2010)	29-35

Installing the Pressure Plate

Once you have the flywheel clean, it’s time to install the pressure plate. The pressure plate bolts to the flywheel, so you’ll need to use a torque wrench to tighten them to the proper specifications.

5. Install the Pressure Plate Bolts

To install the pressure plate bolts, you’ll need to:

Clean the bolts and threads with a wire brush.
Put a dab of blue Loctite on each bolt.
Apply a small amount of grease to each bolt.
Hand-tighten the bolts into the flywheel.
Use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts to the proper specifications.

	Torque Spec
M10 x 1.25 bolts	27 ft-lbs
M12 x 1.5 bolts	36 ft-lbs

Once you’ve tightened the bolts to the proper specifications, double-check your work to make sure everything is tight and secure.

Reassembling the Clutch Assembly

Now that the clutch has been replaced, it’s time to reassemble the clutch assembly. This process is the reverse of the disassembly process, but there are a few things to keep in mind.

First, make sure that the flywheel and pressure plate are clean and free of any debris. Any dirt or grime can cause the clutch to slip, so it’s important to clean these surfaces thoroughly.

Next, apply a thin layer of grease to the input shaft of the transmission. This will help to reduce friction and prevent wear.

Now, carefully slide the clutch disc onto the input shaft. Make sure that the disc is aligned correctly, with the splines on the disc mating with the splines on the shaft.

Next, place the pressure plate over the clutch disc. Again, make sure that the pressure plate is aligned correctly, with the bolts holes on the pressure plate lining up with the holes on the flywheel.

Finally, tighten the bolts that hold the pressure plate in place. Use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts to the specified torque, as overtightening can damage the pressure plate.

Installing the Clutch Fork and Release Bearing

Once the clutch assembly is bolted in place, it’s time to install the clutch fork and release bearing. The clutch fork is a lever that is used to disengage the clutch, and the release bearing is a bearing that allows the clutch fork to move smoothly.

To install the clutch fork, first insert the pivot pin into the hole on the transmission case. Then, slide the clutch fork onto the pivot pin. Make sure that the fork is facing the correct direction, with the release bearing facing the pressure plate.

Next, install the release bearing onto the clutch fork. The release bearing should fit snugly onto the fork.

Finally, connect the clutch cable to the clutch fork. The clutch cable is a cable that is used to pull the clutch fork and disengage the clutch.

Part Name	Torque (Nm)
Pressure Plate Bolts	10-12 Nm
Clutch Fork Pivot Pin	15-17 Nm

Reinstalling the Transmission

1. Make sure the transmission input shaft is properly aligned with the clutch disc before sliding the transmission back into place.

2. Carefully lift the transmission and guide it onto the dowel pins on the engine block.

3. Once the transmission is in place, tighten the transmission-to-engine bolts to the specified torque.

4. Reinstall the bell housing cover and tighten the bolts.

5. Reinstall the starter motor.

6. Reconnect the shift linkage and the clutch cable.

7. Reinstall the driveshafts by following these steps:

Lift the vehicle and support it on jack stands.
Remove the cotter pin and castle nut from the driveshaft flange.
Slide the driveshaft out of the transmission.
Inspect the driveshaft for any damage or wear.
Apply a thin coat of grease to the splines of the driveshaft.
Slide the driveshaft into the transmission.
Install the castle nut and cotter pin.
Lower the vehicle and remove the jack stands.

8. Fill the transmission with the specified type of fluid.

9. Bleed the clutch hydraulic system.

10. Test drive the vehicle to ensure proper operation of the clutch and transmission.

Adjusting the Clutch Pedal

Once the new clutch has been installed, it’s crucial to adjust the clutch pedal correctly. This process ensures the proper engagement and disengagement of the clutch.

1. Locate the Clutch Master Cylinder

Inside the engine bay, find the clutch master cylinder. It’s typically attached to the firewall and has two hydraulic lines connected to it.

2. Adjust the Pushrod

The clutch master cylinder has a pushrod that actuates the clutch pedal. Loosen the locknut on the pushrod and adjust its length using an open-end wrench.

3. Measure the Free Play

With the clutch pedal fully depressed, measure the free play between the pedal and the floor. Aim for about 1/2 to 1 inch of free play.

4. Tighten the Locknut

Once the pushrod is adjusted, tighten the locknut to secure it in place.

5. Bleed the Clutch System

Any air bubbles in the clutch system can affect pedal feel and performance. Bleed the system by opening the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder and pumping the clutch pedal to expel air and replace it with hydraulic fluid.

6. Recheck the Free Play

After bleeding the system, recheck the clutch pedal free play and make any necessary adjustments.

7. Test the Clutch

Start the engine and engage the clutch. The vehicle should move smoothly without any slipping or shuddering.

8. Fine-Tune Adjustments

With the vehicle running, test the clutch pedal feel and engagement point. If necessary, make small adjustments to the pushrod length or bleeding the system again to achieve the desired pedal response and smooth operation of the clutch.

Symptom	Cause
Hard clutch pedal	Loose clutch master cylinder
Soft clutch pedal	Air in clutch system
Clutch slipping	Worn clutch plates

Bleeding the Clutch Hydraulics

Bleeding the clutch hydraulic system is a necessary step to remove any air bubbles that may have entered the system during the clutch replacement process. Air bubbles can cause the clutch to engage or disengage improperly, making it difficult to shift gears.

Requirements:

Before you begin bleeding the clutch hydraulics, you will need the following tools and materials:

– Clear Plastic Tube
– Empty Bottle (with at least 12 ounces capacity)
– 10mm Wrench
– DOT 3 Brake Fluid

Follow these steps to bleed the clutch hydraulics:

1. Connect the clear plastic tube to the bleeder screw located on the slave cylinder, which is typically at the bottom of the transmission bell housing.

2. Submerge the other end of the tube into the empty bottle, ensuring that it is submerged in brake fluid.

3. Start the engine and allow it to idle.

4. Use the 10mm wrench to slowly loosen the bleeder screw, allowing brake fluid and any trapped air to flow out of the system and into the bottle. Do not fully remove the screw, as this could introduce air into the system.

5. Tighten the bleeder screw once fluid begins to flow out.

6. Repeat steps 4-6 until no more air bubbles are present in the fluid coming out of the bleeder screw and the fluid stream is constant.

7. Top off the brake fluid reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid.

8. Reinstall the reservoir cap and tighten it securely.

9. Check the clutch pedal for proper operation. It should engage smoothly and disengage completely. If any issues are present, repeat the bleeding process or seek professional assistance.

Troubleshooting Potential Issues

1. Difficulty Shifting Gears

If you encounter difficulty shifting gears after replacing the clutch, it could indicate:

Improper clutch adjustment: Ensure proper adjustment of the clutch cable or hydraulic line.
Damaged clutch release mechanism: Inspect the clutch release bearing, fork, or slave cylinder for damage.
Faulty transmission components: Check for worn synchronizers or damaged gears in the transmission.

2. Clutch Slipping

If the clutch slips and fails to engage properly, it may be due to:

Improperly installed clutch disc: Check that the clutch disc is installed with the correct facing material towards the flywheel.
Worn or contaminated clutch disc: Replace the clutch disc if it shows signs of wear or contamination.
Incorrect clutch fluid: Use the manufacturer-recommended clutch fluid and ensure it is clean.

3. Clutch Chattering

Clutch chattering during engagement can result from:

Misaligned clutch components: Ensure proper alignment of the clutch disc, pressure plate, and flywheel.
Worn clutch components: Check for wear on the clutch disc, pressure plate, or flywheel.
Incorrect clutch adjustment: Adjust the clutch cable or hydraulic line according to the manufacturer’s specifications.

4. Clutch Pedal Pulsation

Pulsations in the clutch pedal can indicate:

Worn or warped clutch disc: Replace the clutch disc if it is warped or shows signs of wear.
Damaged or glazed flywheel: Resurface or replace the flywheel if necessary.
Improper clutch installation: Ensure proper installation and alignment of the clutch components.

5. Noise During Clutch Engagement

Noises during clutch engagement may be caused by:

Worn or damaged clutch release bearing: Replace the clutch release bearing if it is worn or damaged.
Improper clutch adjustment: Adjust the clutch cable or hydraulic line as recommended by the manufacturer.
Damaged clutch components: Inspect the clutch disc, pressure plate, and flywheel for damage.

6. Clutch Pedal Vibration

Vibrations in the clutch pedal can result from:

Incorrect clutch adjustment: Ensure proper adjustment of the clutch cable or hydraulic line.
Damaged clutch components: Check for wear or damage on the clutch disc, pressure plate, or flywheel.
Loose engine or transmission mounts: Inspect and tighten any loose engine or transmission mounts.

7. Clutch Pedal Stickiness

A sticky clutch pedal may be due to:

Hydraulic clutch problems: Check the clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, and hydraulic lines for leaks or damage.
Worn or damaged clutch cable: Replace the clutch cable if it is worn or damaged.
Contaminated clutch fluid: Flush and replace the clutch fluid if it is contaminated.

8. Clutch Pedal Stiffness

A stiff clutch pedal can indicate:

Improper clutch adjustment: Ensure proper adjustment of the clutch cable or hydraulic line.
Damaged clutch components: Inspect the clutch disc, pressure plate, and flywheel for wear or damage.
Loose or broken clutch return spring: Check and replace the clutch return spring if necessary.

9. Clutch Pedal Movement

Unusual clutch pedal movement may be caused by:

Faulty clutch master cylinder: Check the clutch master cylinder for leaks or damage.
Damaged clutch slave cylinder: Inspect the clutch slave cylinder for leaks or damage.
Air in the clutch hydraulic system: Bleed the clutch hydraulic system to remove any air.

10. Clutch System Maintenance

Regular maintenance is crucial for optimal clutch performance. Consider the following:

Inspect the clutch system regularly for signs of wear or damage.
Adjust the clutch cable or hydraulic line as per manufacturer’s recommendations.
Flush and replace the clutch fluid every 2-3 years or as recommended by the manufacturer.
Avoid riding the clutch and shifting gears smoothly to prevent premature wear.
Have the clutch system inspected and serviced by a qualified mechanic as needed.

Maintaining a well-functioning clutch system ensures smooth gear shifting, prevents premature wear, and enhances the overall driving experience of your Honda 2010.

How to Replace Clutch on Honda 2010

Replacing a clutch on a Honda 2010 can be a complex and time-consuming task, but it is possible to do it yourself with the right tools and instructions. Here’s a comprehensive guide on how to replace the clutch on a Honda 2010:

1. Gather the necessary tools and materials, including a new clutch kit, flywheel resurfacer, torque wrench, jack stands, and transmission jack.
2. Safety first: Park the car on a level surface and engage the parking brake. Allow the engine to cool completely before starting work.
3. Remove the transmission: Disconnect the battery, then remove the air filter assembly, shift linkage, driveshafts, and any other components that obstruct access to the transmission.
4. Support the transmission with a jack and remove the transmission mount bolts.
5. Carefully lower the transmission and separate it from the engine.
6. Resurface the flywheel: Use a flywheel resurfacer to remove any imperfections or glazing from the flywheel’s surface.
7. Inspect the pressure plate and clutch disc: Check for signs of wear, damage, or contamination. Replace if necessary.
8. Install the new clutch disc and pressure plate: Align the clutch disc with the flywheel and install the pressure plate over it. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
9. Reinstall the transmission: Carefully lift the transmission into place and align it with the engine. Secure it with the transmission mount bolts.
10. Reconnect all components: Reattach the driveshafts, shift linkage, air filter assembly, and battery.
11. Bleed the clutch hydraulic system: Use a clutch bleeding kit to remove any air from the system.
12. Test drive the vehicle: Once the clutch is replaced, take the car for a test drive to ensure proper operation.